Basement Waterproofing and Foundation Repairs
289-880-7988
info@basementworx.ca


 

Cinder Block Wall

Here you’ll find the most common permanent ways to fix various types of damage to cement block foundations. There are 2 methods we use to address water seeping into your livable space.  Both are acceptable practices within the waterproofing industry and are used by us as we believe they are the best to alternatives available to you.

Most Effective Method: External Waterproofing

In any industry there’s a solution available that is superior to anything else.  In our case it’s addressing the water issue at the source of the problem – the exterior of your foundation.

By stopping the water from coming into contact with your foundation you eliminate any moisture from entering into your home – PERIOD.  Although this procedure is invasive it is by far the most effective.

To discuss whether or not external waterproofing makes sense to you call us at 289-880-7988 or click here to submit your request via email.

CLICK TO SEE THE 11 STEPS WE FOLLOW to ensure you a worry-free waterproofing solution for years to come.

A – Site survey is conducted to determine the following:

- where to pile the dirt that comes out of the excavated trench we will make,

- where we can pile necessary construction materials such as gravel

- where we can safely park trailers, machinery, etc.

Sometimes we require permission from a neighbor to pile the dirt on their property in order to conduct our work. We also decide how the site is to be protected, where we need to protect the ground with plywood, and how the site is to be managed during the course of the work.  We want to make sure you are still able to get into your home throughout the project.

B – Locates are called in and a building permit is purchased (if required.)

At that time a start week is designated as it is difficult to say exactly when the locates will be conducted, permits granted or even how the weather conditions will be as it is unsafe to work in an excavated pit while it is raining out.

C - Materials/Equipment are delivered & the digging begins…

Ground protection boards and shoring sections are dropped on site (if required) and the digging begins. Foundation walls/footings are exposed and once here we scrape or wire brush the entire area.  If there are any cracks present we apply the first line of defense – hydraulic cement.

D - Sealing of the walls…

A rubber membrane is applied to the area that has been excavated which seals the foundation wall.  This membrane is manufactured here in Canada and is environmentally safe as it is a waterbased, non toxic product.  Once cured it leaves your foundation with a seamless coating that is unaffected by a range of acids, alkalis & waterborne salts, ultra violet rays and is resistant to biological deterioration!

E - Last line of defense!

A dimpled sheet air-gap membrane called Delta MS is installed over top of the rubber membrane and helps eliminate hydrostatic relief… which is what originally forced the water through your foundation in the first place.

F - New weeping tile is now ready to be installed.

Weeping tile is a 4″ corrugated plastic pipe with slits around the perimeter running the full length of the pipe which has a filter fabric wrapped around it. See below.

repair leaking basements

G - Gravel is installed

Gravel is installed over the weeping tile to meet with The Ontario building code which specifies “not less than 5 and 7/8″ of gravel on top and beside the weeping tile.

H - A Filter fabric is installed

Filter fabric is installed over the gravel to prevent dirt from getting into the freshly laid gravel bed.  We do this as most of the water that enters the gravel layer comes from above which will only bring with it dirt that we will be backfilling with once the job is complete. This will also keep the gravel from becoming plugged up in the future.

I - Inspections

If a permit was obtained a building inspector will be called.  The inspector will ensure that the installation of our system is up to code.  Once he sees that everything is in order it time for the next step.

J - Backfilling

Backfilling of the trench is now ready to take place and the native soil that was removed is now placed back along side your foundation.

K - Final clean up

Final clean up is completed and all materials and equipment is removed from the site.

*NOTE* The above is an example of a typical exterior project but this is not always the case. Sometimes we do not have access for a machine to do the digging or we cannot pile the dirt directly beside the hole so the need for hand digging and dirt relocation must be performed.  This will be discussed during our initial consultation so you are informed before committing to anything we decide to do together.


Secondary Method:  Interior Drainage System

The most effective interior drainage systems as described by the University of Minnesota is a perforated drain pipe installed inside the perimeter of the footing.  This requires removing and replacing concrete at the slab edge. By placing the drain pipe beneath the slab, it drains the area to a lower level. Similar to an exterior system, the drainage pipe connects to a sump system. The sump system should have an airtight, childproof cover. A critical component of this approach is the dimpled plastic sheeting (Delta MS) placed at the base of the wall and beneath the slab edge. Dimpled sheeting is similar to a small egg crate and permits free drainage of the wall into the drain pipe.

Although this is an effective solution don’t be fooled by other waterproofing companies that deem this repair “waterproofing” because it is not.  It is simply the management of water that is passing through or under your foundation.

remove water from foundation walls

We use this system when an external solution is either not possible or too costly due to the added expense of removing and replacing decks, landscaping, etc.  There are times when you don’t want to use this system but that hinges on your specific situation.

The best thing to do is have us inspect your foundation with you by our side so we can discuss the issues you are having and whether or not this solution is for you.  To do this call us at 289-880-7988 or click here to submit an email so we can set some time aside visit with you.

 

Repairing Bowed Block Walls

To properly fix a bowed cement block foundation wall, an assessment will need to be conducted to conclude the severity of the bow itself.

Repairing a Slightly Bowed Wall – If you catch the wall before it deflects or bows in more than 2 inches we can install carbon fiber straps that will prevent the wall from bowing any further in the future.  Because we are a Certified Installer and Dealer for StrongHold Carbon Fiber Repair Solutions we have the solutions to repair your problem.

carbon fiber basement repairs

Here are the steps to properly repair concrete block foundation walls that have bowed 2″ or less using carbon fiber :

  1. The affected wall is measure for total length and height to determine how many carbon fiber straps are required.
  2. Once we determine how many straps are required we surface prep the wall by surface grinding the affected areas to ensure proper bonding will take place.
  3. Any visible cracks are cleaned and then vacuumed out to ensure there are no contaminants left in the crack.
  4. A coat of epoxy is then applied over the cracks and into any mortar joints that are over 1/4″ deep.
  5. We apply a primer to the area that has been prepped in order to obtain maximum adhesion.
  6. A saturant is then rolled onto both sides of the carbon fiber straps.
  7. The carbon fiber is then applied to the primed section of wall directly over top of the prepared area.
  8. Wait for the area to cure and you are ready to paint or finish over top of your newly repaired wall…  It’s that simple!

Repairing A Significantly Bowed Wall – If the wall has already moved and has bowed inward more than 2 inches we will need to “push it” back into place before we can do anything.  Below is a description of how we address this type of situation:

The affected wall is measure for total length and height to determine how many carbon fiber straps are required.

  1. Once we determine how many straps are required we surface prep the wall by surface grinding the affected areas to ensure proper bonding will take place.
  2. The soil is excavated on the outside of the wall so we can push it back to achieve its “maximum practical recovery”
  3. Any visible cracks are cleaned and then vacuumed out to ensure there are no contaminants left in the crack.
  4. A coat of epoxy is then applied over the cracks and into any mortar joints that are over 1/4″ deep.
  5. We apply a primer to the area that has been prepped in order to obtain maximum adhesion.
  6. A saturant is then rolled onto both sides of the carbon fiber straps.
  7. The carbon fiber is then applied to the primed section of wall directly over top of the prepared area.
  8. Once the area has cured 100% we can begin backfilling the native soil on the outside of the wall and leave a proper grade.

bowed wall repair

After a bowed wall is pushed back and carbon fiber straps are added

The use of carbon fiber straps is a great alternative to using steel beams that stick out from the wall and take away from the overall square footage of your finished space.  The fact that they are virtually invisible means you can carry on with the renovation of your basement without the worry of working around steel beams.

If you have a bowed wall and would like us to inspect it for repair call us at 289-880-7988 or click here to submit your request via email.

*NOTE*  The installation of carbon fiber straps does not address any water leakage issues.  They are designed to support the wall and prevent it from bowing in the future.  If you are concerned about water leakage thru your block walls, please see below to see how we can solve that issue.

 

Window Wells

To properly fix a window well drainage problem we offer the following procedure.

window wells in Milton

Pictorial of how a window well should be drained

Pictorial of how a window well should be drained

  1. Excavation is performed from the window well right down to the weeping tile.
  2. While there is is recommended that a weeping tile test be performed to ensure that it is draining as it wouldn’t make sense to connect a window well drain pipe down to a weeping tile drain that does not work.
  3. A 4″ drain pipe is installed to approximately 4″ below the height of the window sill.
  4. Window well is fastened to the wall with concrete screws (if required)
  5. Excavation is backfilled with native soil
  6. Gravel is poured inside the window well to facilitate drainage into the newly installed drain pipe. Option: backfill the entire excavation with 3/4″ clear gravel – this will guarantee that any water that enters the window well area will drain quickly to the weeping tile system.

To book a window well procedure call 289-880-7988 or click here to submit your request via email.

 

Blocked or Collapsed Weeping Tile

To properly address this issue you must determine whether or not you actually have a blocked or collapsed weeping tile.  To do this we recommend you have your system scoped by a drain expert.  By scoped I mean the use of a camera on the end of a flexible tube like apparatus that can be inserted into your weeping tile system to inspect it from the inside.  This method will show you exactly what your system looks like and if there are any blockages within.

To perform this test there must be an entry point to your weeping system. IF there is not one available we will have to dig a hole down to your weeping tile system and create an entry point.  Once the camera is inserted into the system you can see a live view on a monitor of what your system looks like.  If there are any blockages present the camera will detect them immediately.

To book a weeping tile scope procedure, please call 289-880-7988

weeping tile

If it is discovered that a weeping tile is blocked you have two options:

  1. You can proceed with a flush procedure which uses high pressure water to cut thru the blockage.  If this procedure is unsuccessful then it will mean that you will have to have to proceed to step two.
  2. You will have to have your weeping tile replaced.  This means we would have to excavate along the perimeter of your home to access the weeping tile system and replace it.  You can choose to replace just the area that is affected OR to replace the entire system around the outside of your home.  It is possible to have multiple blockages but that can be determined by performing another scope procedure.